[Previous entry: "Mount Rainier - Waiting for our set"]
07/26/2006: "First Summit, Emmons Glacier route"
Im listening to Innocense Mission - Another CountryFeeling sore
We left Seattle around noon on Friday. It was already hot and the word on the street was for record temps this weekend. A look to the forecast, and the freezing level was to hover around 15,000 feet. Well above the summit of Mount Rainier. Our expectations were high. I had made 3 prior full-fledged summit attempts to be shut out all 3 times. Once due to illness, and twice thanks to the weather. This weekend was looking good.
We arrived White River Campground and got to work. The hike from the car to Glacier Basin had us on a quick pace. No doubt driven by the anticipation and adrenaline at the thought of standing at the top of the great hill. There was no snow and the shade of the canopy was appreciated each time it re-appeard after we were left exposed to the sun. We marched on with Camp Curtis as are target for the night. It had cooled off and we wanted to scale the inter-glacier without the horrendous heat. On our first attempt on this route, we had lost a climber to heat exhaustion by scaling the glacier in mid-day.
The boot-pack up the inter-glacier was wonderful. We had crampons with anti-bott devices, but probably didnt need them. We used our trekking poles, and didnt rope up. It was as nice an ascent as any slog up the Muir Snow-field. The word on the street was the route above was in just as good a shape. We reached Camp Curtis with relative ease, and slept well through the night. The temperature never dipped below 40 degrees.
The next morning we moved down the ridge onto the Emmons for the quick climb to Schurman. Lots of tents and not much space. I was surprised that at around 10am not many teams were back from the previous night. We spent the day sleeping, eating, and hydrating as is the norm and also met some pretty neat people. I wish more advertising of climbing courtesy was done. When your in camp and its getting to late afternoon, be cognoscente of the people trying to get some rest for their summit bid that night. Its tough enough to get sleep during the day as it is. Throwing rocks around and yelling across camp to your friends doesnt help. (I say this for myself as much as everyone else)
Since this would be my first foray above 10k feet I was looking forward to some teams going up first. There was talk about a few teams doing a 9pm start, so we set our sites on 10pm. This should get us to the summit about sunrise, and get us back to Schurman at a decent hour. We set off at 10:01pm. (A feat of unparalleled organization, not matched in recent days) oddly enough, we passed the teams starting out earlier about 1/3rd way up the cooridor. I found myself leading, and route-finding.
Fortunately for me, not to mention everyone behind me, the route was very straight-forward. The climb up the cooridor took longer than I thought it should, and I began to feel the effects of the strain and the altitude. I had considered for a few brief minutes about turning around. My ultimate decision was that I would push on as far as I could safely go, and if need be, pass off my climbing partner to a stronger group as they came by.
Turns out, I pushed all the way to the summit. There were a few snow-bridges along the way that looked a little hairy, but were pretty solid considering the temperature. When we came out of the cooridor we winded through some crevasses, and at the 'brown band' we actually opted to shoot straight up-slope toward the Berg. On our descent, we took the other route. On that particuliar day, the direct shot was definitely the way to go. The snow was solid, and the Berg was easily passable with maybe a 10 foot stretch of water-ice to trample over.
About 13,000 feet the snow solidified due to the wind, and we had great cramponing to the summit. We reached the summit at 4:40am and had beaten the DC folks by about 30 minutes. After a few obligatory summit shots on Columbia Crest, we signed the book and sat down at the top of the Emmons route to watch the sunrise. There is something about sitting on a volcano at 14,000 feet watching the sun breach the horizon. A visualization that is now etched into my memory forever.
On top of the world, we made our way down. Once the sun hit the surface, the snow was immediately soft, and heat was just as oppressive. I thanked God for getting us up safely and during the coolness of the night. We encoutered the first team about 13,000 feet. Making good progress, but you could see the sun taking its toll. Further down the mountain, my climbing partner came upon a backpack anchored into the snow by an ice axe, and also a pickett. Disconcerting to say the least.
"Thats odd, who would leave that on the mountain?".
Now imagine his surprise when the pack moved, and suddenly from underneath, a person pops up. Left on the moutain by his buddies, they at least dug him hole to keep out of the wind. We were more than happy to clip him into our rope and get him back to camp.
We pulled into Schurman around 8:30am and made the immediate decision to just pack up and go. I could tell I had a couple more hours before my body would demand rest, and I didnt want to spend those hours tightening up in a tent, just to delay the inevitible march of pain out to the car.
We met up with some friends, and high-tailed it outta there. The trip down the inter-glacier was some of the most amazing, cold, long glissading I have ever done. I was wearing shorts, and still decided to drop into the 800 vertical foot chutes that were strewn along the glacier. We were at the base in no-time.
About 1/2 mile out of Glacier Basin my legs began to give out. Every step started to ache, and downhills with the pack weight became almost unbearable. It took concerted effort and concentration to lift my legs over some of the obstacles on the trail. The sun was heating up, and I had way too many layers on, but was too tired to stop and shed. I became indifferent to everything around me. Heat, pace, conversation around me. People on the trail became objects. Something to walk around, then, later, something to make move out of my way. The last mile is a blur. I only remember being hot, then cool, then hot, then cool again, as I moved in and out of the shadow of the canopy.
Finally the car. We finished drinking whatever liquids were left, and triumphantly left the parking lot.
It was my first summit. It was scary, tiring, painful, and exquisite. I cant wait for the next one.
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